Any reluctance at leaving behind the up-market courses of Hammamet is quickly eased as you approach Port El Kantaoui, situated just north of Sousse. On the way, stop off at Enfidha; the town has an interesting war cemetery dating from World War II and the North African campaign. A few kilometres away is the battle hill of Takrouna which was taken for the Allies by a handful of Maori soldiers. The views from the top are stunning.

The actual port of El Kantaoui boasts a 340-berth marina which is as stylish as many on the French Riviera. This particular marina combines the old-world charm of arches above rustic cobblestone streets and lamp-lit quays with a modern, bustling commercial infrastructure which includes a long stretch of hotels, many boutiques and duty-free shops, and a seemingly endless supply of cafes. Pleasure boats and floating restaurants run trips from the promenade on a regular basis, and there are opportunities for riding and watersports on the beach.

And again, the golf course is well worth a visit. Built in 1979 on a 250-acre estate on the side of a hill, Port El Kantaoui golf course dominates the charming resort town. Three mature nine-hole courses - the Red, Blue and Yellow and a fourth, the White, which has just opened for play, make this a popular venue. All were designed by the same architect, Ronald Fream, and given the increased flow of traffic over the past couple of years, the new White course is a very welcome addition.

Port El Kantaoui hosted the Tunisian Open on the PGA European Tour from 1982 85, when it was just starting to develop into a mature layout - a testament to its well-designed, solid features. Sand dunes and characteristic palm trees adorn the fairways of all the layouts but it is perhaps the Red course which will linger in the memory for just a little while longer.

It is a pleasurable mix of both links and parkland golf like some of the best courses in Britain and America. The best holes, however, are those that enjoy the audience of the sand grains along the beach and the crashing waves of the Mediterranean, and it is this beach-front seclusion that provides the atmosphere. Try concentrating on a three-foot putt at the 5th with the changing shoreline and its boisterous waves just a few steps away. If the scenery doesn't get you, the breeze will.

The other layouts also carry a stamp of quality. The Blue nine is fairly straight and quite flat, running parallel with the Hammamet-Sousse road before snaking uphill to the new White nine. The Yellow, meanwhile, is tighter, requiring a bit more accuracy off the tee. Overall, the four courses mix the olive tree lined fairways in Tunisia with a stark section along the coast that is sparse and exposed.